The Last Supper

A group of us decided to eat out on a high yesterday and booked a table for eight at Deanes on Howard Street. We had talked about treating ourselves to something like this for years and it only took us leaving the country to finally coax everybody, including ourselves, to make the effort and let the wallet take a little pounding.

The restaurant was recently renovated and the only fault, which strangely seems to be the norm in a lot of classy restauarants, is that the only expense spared is on the toilet facilities and whose visitations to detract from the overall pleasant interior decorations of the building.

We were seated at the front of the restaurant near the serving counter which gave us a glimpse at the preparation or "plating up" of the dishes and Michael Deane was there himself checking each meal before it was sent to the table and it was like being a fly on the wall in an episode of Master Chef.

The menu is smaller than a lot of other restaurants but the choices available are certainly not lacking and decision time came to crunch time as we ordered our starters and main dishes. I opted for the carpaccio of Óisin with panfried sweetbreads, summer mushrooms and bay leaves served with a almond butter vinaigrette. It was quite delicious although just a tad too oily in places and set me up nicely for the main course.

The wine list was quite extensive and runs from the £17 Chilean Merlot that we ordered a couple of bottles of to a £700 bottle of 1983 Chateau Petrus (which we didn't order).

For my main course I had saddle of rabbit with tart fine of cépes and salsify, summer truffle and verjus reduction. It was another fine meal and those sitting around me were very happy with their dishes.

This kind of food is quite deceptive in that although it doesn't look like a £20 plate of food, it is more than enough to satisfy because of the composition and content.

I was quite happy to forgo a dessert as I was quite filled but the fantastic service tailed off somewhat towards the end of our meal and by the time a few of us recieved their puddings and the cheese cart came around to serve those who opted for the board selection, I was reading for the same and Lou and I split a selection of cheeses. This was accompanied by a 12 year old Cragganmore whisky for me and a glass of port for Lou.

In short, the food at Deane's is exceptionally good and it is quite obviously a step above the normal cost of dining out but for a rise above the norm in regards of the food itself and for a treat, I would certainly recommend it.

Rating

Menu *****

Value ****

Service *****

Decor ****

Disabled ***

Parking *